The Three Cities of Malta Explained

Across the Grand Harbour from Valletta sit three fortified towns that most visitors glimpse from a viewpoint and never quite reach: Senglea, Birgu and Cospicua, known collectively as the Three Cities, or Cottonera. They are older than Valletta itself, steeped in the story of the Knights of St John, and far quieter than Malta's better-known sights. This guide explains what the Three Cities actually are, the history that shaped them, what to see in each, and exactly how to get there.

What are the Three Cities?

The Three Cities are three adjoining fortified towns on the southern side of Malta's Grand Harbour, directly opposite Valletta. Each has both a modern name and an older, honorific title given by the Knights of St John:

  • Senglea (Maltese: Isla), formally Città Invicta, "the Unconquered City".
  • Birgu (Maltese: Vittoriosa), formally Città Vittoriosa, "the Victorious City".
  • Cospicua (Maltese: Bormla), formally Città Cospicua, "the Conspicuous City".

Senglea and Birgu are two narrow fingers of land that jut into the harbour with a creek between them, while Cospicua curves around the head of that creek and is the largest of the three. Together with their ring of defensive walls they form the district often called Cottonera, after the Cottonera Lines built to enclose them. It is an easy area to explore on foot: the towns flow into one another, and you can walk from one to the next in minutes.

A short history: the Knights and the Great Siege

When the Knights of St John arrived in Malta in 1530, they made Birgu their home, long before Valletta existed. From this small peninsula they built a base around Fort St Angelo, and the harbour towns became the heart of the new Order's island.

That decision was tested in 1565, when an Ottoman fleet laid siege to Malta in what became known as the Great Siege. Birgu and Senglea bore the brunt of the assault. Fort St Angelo in Birgu and Fort St Michael in Senglea held against months of bombardment, and the Knights' eventual victory is why Senglea earned the title Città Invicta and Birgu became Città Vittoriosa. It was only after the siege that the Knights built Valletta on the opposite shore as a new, more defensible capital, and the centre of gravity gradually shifted across the water.

The Three Cities remained the home of Malta's shipbuilding and naval life for centuries, including through the British period and the dockyard's role in the Second World War, when the area was heavily bombed. What survives today is a remarkable layer-cake of history: medieval streets, Baroque churches, auberges of the Knights, and a working waterfront that has been restored into one of the prettiest marinas in the Mediterranean.

Highlights of each city

Birgu (Vittoriosa)

Birgu is the most visited of the three and the easiest place to start. Its tangle of medieval lanes leads down to the Birgu Waterfront on Dockyard Creek, lined with restored warehouses and superyachts. Don't miss Fort St Angelo at the tip of the peninsula, the Inquisitor's Palace (now the National Museum of Ethnography), and the quiet alleys of the old Collachio quarter where the Knights once lived. The Inquisitor's Palace is open daily, roughly 9:00 to 17:00 with last admission around 16:30, with adult tickets about €6 (concessions and children less); it is worth confirming the latest hours and prices on the Heritage Malta website before you go. The Malta Maritime Museum is on the waterfront too, though note it has been under major restoration for several years; at present only its "An Island at the Crossroads" exhibition is open to visitors rather than the full museum, so check what is accessible before planning a visit. We cover Birgu in much more detail in our guide to things to do in Birgu (Vittoriosa).

Senglea (Isla)

Senglea is the narrowest and arguably most atmospheric of the three, a single dense spine of streets running out to a point. At the very tip sits the Gardjola Gardens, where a small stone watchtower (the Gardjola) carved with an eye and an ear keeps a famous, much-photographed watch over the harbour. The views back towards Valletta and Fort St Angelo from here are some of the best in Malta. Senglea's waterfront has a cluster of relaxed marina restaurants, and the town has a genuine lived-in feel away from the busier crowds.

Cospicua (Bormla)

Cospicua is the largest and most residential of the trio, wrapping around the head of Dockyard Creek. It is less of a sightseeing checklist and more a place to feel ordinary Maltese life, with its grand parish church, the sweeping Cottonera defensive lines, and the regenerated Dock 1 area. It is also where the Valletta ferry docks, so many visitors pass through Cospicua on arrival.

How to visit the Three Cities

The Three Cities sit directly across the Grand Harbour from Valletta, and there are three good ways to make the crossing.

By ferry

The Valletta–Three Cities ferry (operated by Valletta Ferry Services) is the most popular option. It crosses from Lascaris Wharf on the Valletta side to the Cottonera terminus at Cospicua in roughly ten minutes, with departures around every 30 minutes. Based on the operator's current fare table, an adult day single is around €3.00 and a return around €5.00, with cheaper child fares and a slightly higher night tariff after 19:30; a return ticket also includes same-day use of the Barrakka Lift in Valletta. Holders of a personalised Tallinja Card have reportedly travelled free on the harbour ferry since early 2024 (a Tallinja bus pass is not the same thing). Hours are seasonal — broadly daytime in winter and much later into the evening in summer — so it is worth checking the current timetable and fares on vallettaferryservices.com before you travel.

By dgħajsa water taxi

For something more characterful, the traditional dgħajsa — a brightly painted Maltese harbour boat — runs as an on-demand water taxi across the harbour. There is no timetable: the boatman sets off once a few passengers have boarded, and you pay him directly in cash, typically around €3 per person for the short crossing (some quote a little less). A dgħajsa drops you near St Lawrence Church and the Maritime Museum in Birgu, slightly closer to the water than the ferry terminus. Many boatmen will also do a short harbour tour, often around €8 per person for roughly half an hour, agreed on the spot. Services run later in summer and taper off in winter.

By bus

Buses also connect the Three Cities with Valletta: routes 1, 2, 3 and 4 serve the area, with route 1 the main link for Senglea and route 2 running to Birgu centre. A single day fare is €2.00 in winter and €2.50 in summer, valid for two hours with free transfers; for a longer stay an Explore 7-day card (around €25 for adults) gives unlimited bus travel. The free Tallinja app is the easiest way to check live times.

From the airport

Malta International Airport is only about 7 km away, roughly a 15–25 minute drive. The simplest options are the official prepaid white-taxi booth in arrivals (indicatively around €16–€27 to the Three Cities, confirmed at the booth), a ride-hailing app such as Bolt or eCabs, or a pre-booked private transfer. There is no single direct bus, so by bus you would change at Paola onto an airport route such as the 88.

Is it worth visiting?

Yes — and especially if you have already seen Valletta and want something quieter and more authentic. The Three Cities offer the same Baroque grandeur and harbour drama as the capital, but with a fraction of the crowds, a working marina, and streets where people actually live. Half a day is enough for a first taste: a ferry across, a wander through Birgu's lanes, the watchtower views from Senglea, and a long lunch on the waterfront. Many visitors who give the area a proper day, or who stay overnight, end up wishing they had allowed more time.

If you would rather wake up inside this living harbour town than just visit for the afternoon, we restored a traditional 16th-century townhouse here in Senglea — a 10–15 minute walk from the Valletta ferry and the dgħajsa landing. You can see Senglea Harbour View or get in touch about dates. For more on choosing a base, see our guide to where to stay in the Three Cities.

Frequently asked questions

What are the Three Cities of Malta?

The Three Cities are three fortified towns on the south side of Malta's Grand Harbour, opposite Valletta: Senglea (Isla), Birgu (Vittoriosa) and Cospicua (Bormla). Together with their defensive walls they are also known as Cottonera. They predate Valletta and were the first home of the Knights of St John in Malta.

How do you get from Valletta to the Three Cities?

The easiest way is the Valletta–Three Cities ferry, which crosses from Lascaris Wharf to Cospicua in about ten minutes, roughly every 30 minutes. An adult day single is around €3.00 (check current fares on vallettaferryservices.com). Alternatively, a traditional dgħajsa water taxi crosses on demand for about €3 per person cash, or buses 1–4 run from Valletta by road.

Which of the Three Cities should I visit first?

Birgu (Vittoriosa) is the best starting point, with its medieval streets, Fort St Angelo, the Inquisitor's Palace and a restored waterfront. Senglea is worth visiting for the watchtower and harbour views at its tip, while Cospicua is the largest and most residential of the three.

What is the history of the Three Cities?

The Knights of St John settled in Birgu in 1530 and built their early base around Fort St Angelo. During the Great Siege of 1565, Birgu and Senglea withstood the Ottoman assault, earning their titles Città Vittoriosa (the Victorious City) and Città Invicta (the Unconquered City). The Knights then built Valletta across the harbour as their new capital.

Is it worth visiting the Three Cities?

Yes. The Three Cities offer the same Baroque architecture and harbour views as Valletta but with far fewer crowds and a genuine local atmosphere. Half a day is enough for a first visit by ferry, though many visitors find a full day or an overnight stay rewarding.